Day 2: Long & Not So Sweet (or, “Here’s mud in your eye.”)

Osage City to Ottawa

Let it rain. We're ready. (Fingers crossed.)

As we drifted off to sleep at the Koch Guesthouse, the rain and wind were at it.  When we awoke, Rob checked Weather Underground, to date the most accurate weather forecasting in near-time.  He announced that if we waited out the two major morning storms and left at noon, we could possibly avoid rain most of the day.  We confirmed with our gracious hosts that it would be okay to make a late departure, and enjoyed our leisurely breakfast, and used the to time to take extra precaution in “dry-packing” our panniers.  In addition, Rob wrapped our panniers in large plastic garbage bags.  Our panniers (purchased new in 1982 for our first long distance tour, an 1800-mile ride from Moses Lake, WA to Redding, IA) have seen thousands of miles, through all kinds of weather, and they are in remarkably good condition, but it never hurts to take precaution against driving rain.

As planned, we started off in good stead, connecting with the trail in a few blocks.  Almost immediately we were confronted with mud and mire, requiring dismounts and pushing the bikes through the weeds alongside the trail edges.  The rideable sections became shorter and farther apart, and we often found no way to get through the muddy sections except to push our bikes through it, and frequently stopping to clear the mud that accumulated between tires and fenders, and along the chains and derailleurs.  We kept hoping it would get better, but after seven miles of this, we knew we had to take to the highway, if we were to get to Ottawa before nightfall.

KS-268 was about .3 mile south of the trail, when we exited onto the next road.  The highway had a fairly high traffic density, but the shoulder was a good four feet wide.  The uphills were long and the downhills not too rewarding (top speed was only 21 mph).  It was blustery cool, but we were warmed by our exertion.  Thankfully, it looked like we would continue to avoid rain, so we removed the garbage bags from our panniers -- they had snagged somewhat while pushing through the muddy trail, and as we went down the highway, began to catch the wind, creating a drag much like a parachute on a dragster.

It was 3:15 PM. when we took a quick break at Doman’s General Store near Vassar.  The proprietor warned us that when KS-268 terminated a few miles east, we would be on KS-68, a busy highway with no shoulders.  She suggested a workaround, which would mean less miles on 68, but more miles to ride.

Concerned about having to ride in the dark, we decided to stay with 68, even though it was totally unpleasant.  The traffic increased in both directions, and the uphills were still long and the downhills fewer and even less rewarding.  Worse, the one-foot of pavement between the fog-line and the ditch was mostly consumed by a wide and deep rumble strip, and there was an abrupt drop at the lane’s edge.  Diane decided she was safer cycling in the traffic lane than trying to maintain a line on the right side of the rumble strip which would leave her no margin for error. Rob took the opposite approach.

Unfortunately, as Rob was preparing to stop for a tête-à-tête with Diane, who had turned off the highway onto a driveway for a breather, he turned too quickly, came off the abrupt edge, and crashed.  He seemed unscathed though and the bike was not damaged, so off we went.  

Not too much further, we came into some good luck – where the Flint Hills Nature Trail crosses 68.  At this point the trail was in excellent condition, and although we didn’t know if it would be that good the rest of the way into Ottawa, we decided to try it.  The trail was good but due to a BNSF railroad crossing, a short section of the trail is incomplete, requiring a 4.2-mile detour on gravel roads. 

By the time we got back onto the trail it was dusk, and quickly darkening.  Soon, though, we were in Ottawa, where we left the Flint Hills Nature Trail, biked a few city blocks to the beginning of the Prairie Spirit Trail, which was paved and well lit – by city lamps and the beautiful full moon.  The three miles on the Prairie Spirit and .3 mile on a city street to our hotel went by quickly, and we arrived safe and sound at 8:00 PM sharp—36 miles in eight hours – a new record for the slowest day ever!

After a quick decamp at the hotel and showers, we donned clean clothes and walked to the nearby Applebee’s for dinner – steak for Diane and grilled chicken for Rob.  Then back to the hotel to prepare for the next day’s ride.

At first the trail was wet but rideable.....

  .....Then it wasn't! (Next move - find a road south to the highway.)